Raspberry Roulade

Anyone who has read my Carrot Cake post will already know that I didn’t inherit a knack for "Southern cooking" - or any cooking, really. My own limited talent for cooking was born solely from exposure, exploration and experimentation.

My first taste of tiramisu, for instance, was in Greenville, SC on a date at Trattoria Giorgio. I don't remember the date, but I still remember the dessert. My love affair with food has been the longest relationship of my life (so far).

Recently I visited Greenville again. It’s become so charming in the last 10 years or so... outdoor cafes defy the heat by settling in around old growth oaks whose roots crack the sidewalks. Southerners sip Bloody Marys and Mimosas under the shade umbrellas, fanning themselves with menus. I can't help but feel a little like an imposter now, having settled so far away. But as I listened to the melodious buzz of Southern voices surrounding me, I felt my accent turn up a notch.

I stopped into Soby’s for the brunch buffet. It was comforting, but it didn't amaze me. Actually, the gravy and biscuits might have been out-of-this-world, but I'm an odd-bird Southerner who doesn't eat pork so I had to skip the sausage gravy. I just had a croissant, some fruit, and a coffee but I was happy enough. It wasn't until I went back for dessert that I was "tickled pink", as we say.

On this particular Sunday, Soby's Raspberry Roulade was my lifesaver. This light and airy treat reminded me of all that is right with the South. It was subtle, with just a bite of  tart. Yielding and sharp. I could have eaten the whole thing. I relished it. I analyzed it. I made plans to recreate it. The one thing I neglected to do was take a picture of it.

It was dusted with a crisp sugar coating (was it vanilla sugar?). It was filled with whipped cream (was it chantilly?) and raspberry (was it jam?). I've been thinking about this roulade for almost 3 weeks now. It's time to take action.

I'll be combining several simple recipes to see if I can recreate this remarkable roulade, or at least come close.

Let's begin.

Genoese

• 20 g butter to grease the pan

• 125 g flour, sifted (Softasilk)

• 4 eggs, room temperature

• 125 g superfine sugar

• 30 g melted butter, cooled

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter and flour a 11 x 14 shallow baking pan.

Whisk the sugar and eggs together in a bowl for about 10-12 minutes until the mix trails in ribbons. Dust with flour and gently fold to incorporate. Be sure to mix thoroughly without over mixing.  Lastly, gently incorporate the melted butter.

Immediately pour the batter evenly into the pan and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until the sponge cake is golden and springs back to the touch.

Set the pan on a cooling rack for 5 minutes, then flip the cake out. The crust of my cake was crispy and delicious but I was concerned about this cake's ability to roll without cracking. Using a long, serrated knife, I sliced off the thin bottom layer to make it more malleable.

I used a raspberry fruit spread for the filling. From what I could tell in the store, this spread looked to have fewer seeds than the others.

Next, Chantilly cream.

• 500 ml heavy cream

• 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

• 50 g confectioner's sugar

Scrape the vanilla bean seeds into the cream. Put the cream in a chilled metal bowl with the sugar and whip with an electric mixer for about 2 minutes at medium speed. Increase to high speed and whip until a ribbon consistency is achieved.

Layer the cream on the raspberry filling. Spread evenly with a palate knife.

Transfer to waxed or parchment paper and trim what will be your inside edge.

I rolled from the short edge, but I have seen roulades rolled from the long edge as well. I don't know which is best. Obviously, rolling from the long side will give you a longer roll, but smaller slices. I went for shorter and thicker.

Fold the parchment over the roll and wrap in cling film. Refrigerate at least 2 hours.

After the roulade has set, place on a cutting board and peel away the wrap. With a clean, serrated knife, trim the two ends to reveal clean edges.

I dusted the top with vanilla sugar and toasted it lightly with a torch for a slightly crispy texture. Cut into slices with a serrated knife (wiping clean after each cut), and serve with fresh berries.

Bon appetit, ya'll.